ChangShu, JiangSu, China 江蘇,常熟
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Changshu is a county-level city under the jurisdiction of Suzhou Prefecture City, about 50 and 100 km far from the
metropolises of Suzhou and Shanghai. In Chinese, Chang means “frequent and always” and Shu expresses “harvest”.
Changshu was first named as an independent jurisdiction in 540 A.D. Traditionally, it was a market town popular for
trades of agricultural products and was enriched with its agricultural civilization. It is the center of the textile
industry now.
SuZhou
蘇州
ShangHai
上海
ChangShu City map The elevation of the city is about 2-3 meter, while the Yu Shan (Yu Mountain, the
green portion of the map) is 200-300 meters high. The old city is SE of YuShan, Now sprawled north.
ChangShu (Yu Shang Scenic Spots)虞山十八景 has developed since 1499. The last hundred years had lots of changes.
In 1999 the public and the experts jointly decided on New YuShan 18 Scenic, with 6 being the same as before. A few
modified and brand new ones such as the estate gardens/ memorials as well as the giant textile market/mall.
常熟旧有“虞山十八景”之说,指书台积雪破山清晓、辛峰夕阳(一说应为降龙古涧)、昆承双塔、桃源
春霁、维摩旭日、剑门奇石、拂水晴岩秦秦坡瀑布、藕 渠渔乐、福港观潮、西城楼阁、普润秋爽、星坛七
桧、湖甸烟雨、湖桥串月、吾谷枫林、三峰松翠。它形成于明、清,正式得名当在光绪年间。明治十二年
(1499年)桑瑜《常熟县志》列常驻熟八景,其中有两湖钓艇、弦歌旧俗、逊让遗风等;明正德年间邑人霄
《虞山杂咏》诗三十首列三十景,其中有昭明书台、 东林塔影、桧列七星、佛水晴岩、致道观楼、桃涧泉
声;清康熙十一年(1672年)太仓大画家王鉴作《虞山十八景诗》,列十景,其中有大海回澜、桃源春涧、
拂水层峦、昭明书台、西城楼阁、湖桥夜月、吾谷丹枫、云护龙涧。从屈、王诗、画中,已见虞山十今年内
八景中的十一景;清道光年间邓琳《虞乡志略》中记陈式 所作《虞山八景诗》,其中有书坛雅韵、拂水奇
观、星坛仙桧、吾谷枫林。光绪四年(1878年)花隐山列虞山七十二景,分虞山大十八景”“虞山小十八景”、 “虞
山续十八景”,及“虞山十八古迹”,其中“虞山大十八景”中的十五景与后来的虞山十八景”景点相同,将“虞山
大十八景”中的“慧日增辉”、“殿桥落 照”、普山新绿”改换成“辛峰夕照”。“普仁秋爽”、“藕渠渔乐”就是“虞山
十八景”据此可知,“虞山十八景”是在“虞山大十八景”基础上产生,具体年代 当在光绪中晚期。
1.书台积雪 秦坡瀑布 藕渠渔乐 福港观潮
2. 湖甸烟雨 西城楼阁 星坛七桧
3. 破山清晓
4. 辛峰夕照 桃源春霖 普仁秋爽 湖桥串月 吾谷枫林 三峰松翠维摩旭日
6. 剑门奇石 拂水睛岩
5. 昆承双塔
新虞山十八景
新虞山十八景‘虞山十八景”命名以来的百年间,时过境迁,原十八景已多数不存或名实不符。1999年经群
众评选和专家评审,评出新“虞山十八景”。新 十八景承沿旧“虞山十八景”的有六景:书台积雪、尚湖烟雨、
拂水晴岩、剑门奇五、破山清晓、维摩旭日,其中“尚湖烟雨”对旧称“湖甸烟雨”稍有改动、改增 十二景,大
致分为三种类型;第一类为旧十八景中残存部分或新、旧景点的组成,如“方塔风铃”,取“昆承双塔”的尚存一
塔方塔;“辛峰城楼”,取旧景“辛峰 夕照”与新景虞山门城楼的组合;第二类为旧“虞山十八景”中未列入的常
熟著名历史遗迹和园林景观,如“双陵怀古”“宝岩梅林”、“翁相府第”、“曾园荷 香”、“燕谷洞天”、“聚沙塔
影”、“红豆山庄”;第三类为反映常熟革命斗争及社会主义建设新貌的全新景点,如“芦荡朝霞”、“商场闹
市”、“新港轮 笛”。
1. 书台积雪
2. 尚湖烟雨
3. 破山清晓
4. 辛峰城楼
5. 方塔风铃
6. 剑门奇石 拂水睛岩 双陵杯古 维摩旭日
7. 宝岩梅林 红豆山庄 芦荡朝霞 聚沙塔影
8. 曾园荷香 燕谷洞天 商城闹市 新港轮笛
9. 翁相府第
5
A,B
1
4
7
9
The above numbered spots, except 1 and 4 will be linked to separate web pages(in construction). Here I will introduce
two ancient graves(A, and B on Map). They are just north of Chang Shu Museum.
A. Yu Zhong c.a. 1111BC. Let his younger brother and nephew have the throne according to his father's wishes. He
came to ChangShu, farmed with people till his death, People made grave for him in the mountain and renamed the
mountain "Yu Shan".
【仲雍】生卒年待考。吴文化始祖。又名虞仲、吴仲。商末周族领袖古公?父(周太王)次子,为顺从父意,
让位于弟季历及侄昌(周文王),与兄泰伯到今无锡、常熟一带,与当地民众并耕而食,饔饔而治,建立了"勾
吴"。初由泰伯为首领,泰伯卒无子,由仲雍继位。仲雍殁后葬于今常熟之地的海隅山上,山因此更名为虞
山。由于仲雍与泰伯让国避位的行为符合中国封建社会儒家礼让、孝恕的道德准则,故3000多年来一直受到
吴地人民的敬仰和称颂。
I have memories of three visits to ChangShu.
1. In Oct. 2002, I was invited as one of the family member guests to my father's calligraphy exhibition at newly
remodel ChangShu Museum.-On the second day I got up to climb the YuShan and hit #1,4 spots.
2. In June 2005 on my way back from the Early Taida DongBei-ShangDong trip, I visited the YangMei Festival and
BaoYan Ecological District.
3. In July 2007, I had chance to visit more spots in a three day visit. 2,3,5,6,8& 9 spots.
記憶中去過常熟三次,一,2002家父在新修建的常熟博物館作書展時.次日清晨,獨登虞山不料見到景1與4.二.
2005夏正值寶岩楊梅節,亦遊生態區.三,2007三曰之留.覽2,3,5,6,8,9等景.
In Oct. 2002, Chang Shu
Museum reopened after
remodeling. My father was
honored with the opening
exhibit.
The family was treated to a
wonderful ChangShu dinner at
this park like setting. Within
walking distance north from the
museum.
博物館之北步行不遠到此古花
園般之地,當局饗晏書者家屬
以一餐極豐盛的常熟筵席.
A. YuZhong ZhouGong Grave: The most ancient grave site in town. On our way walk to the dinner, we pass this flower
display of Celebration of National Day,10/01)
A shelter for guests to rest.
It is hard to
maintian a grave
from 1111BC or
so.
B.Grave of Yan2 Yan4--(506-443bc) Confucious' deciple, the only one from the south. Later in life taught students in
area, had great influence in culture of the South East China.
【言偃】(前506~前443)春秋时孔子唯一的南方弟子。字子游,又称叔氏。常熟人。22岁时离乡北上,拜孔
子为师,为其三千弟子中七十二贤之一。谦虚好学,擅长文学,曾任鲁国武城宰,用礼乐教化民众,境内到
处有弦歌之声,深得孔子赞赏。后学成南归,从游弟子无数,被誉为传播东南文化第一人。唐代起先后被封
为吴侯、吴公、吴国公及先贤言子等。清康熙间特设五经博士一员,由其后裔世袭。言偃对吴地文化的繁荣
作出了很大贡献.
1.書臺積雪--Due to jet leg, I got up to climb Yu shan at 6am. I came across what I thought was the Study Platform of
Prince ZhaoMing, (6th Century). In his name a series of ancient text was selected and often studied until now. 讀書
臺. 园内现有南朝梁昭明太子读书台,另有焦尾轩、焦尾泉、虞山东麓摩崖石刻、巫公祠、雅集亭诸景。公
园大门口有花岗岩石狮一对,为原老城隍庙旧物。公园入口处镌有邑人、书画家钱持云所书“读书台”匾额。
“书台积雪”为“虞山十八景”之一。
读书台:以山泥夯筑,高3.54米,南北长14.6米,东西宽12.8米,居高临下,岿然而峙。台上有石亭,系长
方形,单间卷棚顶,高3.65米,阔 4.6米,进深5.16米。壁间嵌砌昭明太子像、《读书台铭》及明佥都御史陈
察撰《重建昭明太子读书台记》等碑刻数通。亭中又有大石台,正面横端镌刻清道光间倪良耀所书《虞麓
园记》。台下四周尚存数百年前所植榆、柏、榉、朴、栎等古树二十余株。
4. SingFongChengLo辛峰城樓. Built 1201-1204 for it's view to the town and lakes originally. This one in 16th cent.
南宋嘉泰(1201-1204年)初,常熟知县何衮在虞山东岭之巅建了一座亭子,取名 “望湖亭”。因为登临此亭
可眺望城西山前之尚湖,又可远眺东南方的昆承湖。至南宋嘉定三年(1210年),知县徐次铎因登临此亭
视野开阔,可极目远眺而将亭更名为“极目亭”,有米芾书的匾。徐次铎还写下了一首题为《极目亭》的
诗:“几点归舟破暮烟,数行雁字落霞边。安得世间王摩诘,为写琴川*是辋川。”元代常熟州知州卢镇在编
《重修琴川志》中这样记载:“极目亭,平野一望数十里,诸山屏列,又有两湖居左右,实为一邑胜概之
最。”对高耸于虞山东岭之巅的极目亭大加赞叹。元明间诗人谢肃有《极目亭》诗:“虞山积翠横东海,上
有??极目亭……”后来此亭废圮。至明嘉靖年间,知县冯汝弼在原址重新建了一座亭子,取名为“达观亭”。
诗人姚煦有《达观亭》诗:“积雨初开霁,虚亭可达观……”徐待聘也有《达观亭》诗。后此亭又废圮。到
万历年间,由萧应宫在原址再建两层之亭,因位于虞城之西,按天干地支方位,西方对应为“辛”,故取名
“辛峰亭”。 *常熟乃水鄉,平行河渠甚多如琴絃,故常熟亦名琴川.見常熟街市頁(制作中).
4. YuShan Gate--First built in 13th century. in 18th century it was demolished in a war. Rebuilt in 1993.
虞山城楼雄踞虞山东岭,明沈玄诗谓:“十里青山半入城”。元至正间,张士诚腾山筑城,明嘉靖间县
令王重建,设虞山门。万历间改镇山门。清同治二年,太平军与叛军在此鏖战。后城砖被拆,仅余
土岗。1993年重修,次年建成城垣长112米,有炮垛、马道、城楼,集翁同和字题“虞山门”额。远眺
“江南小长城”,雉堞参差,崇楼如画。登楼望一城鳞次栉比、两湖帆影出没。当山雨欲来时,披襟当
风,胸襟为之一畅。
In the old days, the gentlemen in ChangShu have a habit of visiting tea houses in the morning. This is when they talk
about business, the happenings around, literature, poetry, etc. I was told that my uncle insisted climbed up the hill every
day to have his tea, until his last days. I came across three on the way up.
Slugging it out in Chinese Chess.